Friday, 15 December 2017

Kwik Sew K3489 - View B

The knit fabric sewing continues with Kwik Sew K3489, which was a free pattern with Sew Now magazine earlier in the year.  I'd been wanting to make this dress for a while, but the tiny 6mm (1/4") seam allowance put me off.  Also, I had a bit of an irrational fear of my overlocker, so there was that too!

 

 

But in November I went to a class to learn how to use my overlocker, and now it's not the boss of me!  The teacher was the lovely Christine from Colour And Cloth, and if you're in Belfast and would like to learn to sew, then I suggest you have a look at the classes on her website!


 

There are two versions on the pattern - view A has long sleeves, a collar and short waist ties, and view B has short sleeves, no collar and long waist ties.  I made view B because I only had 2 metres of fabric.
Kwik Sew K3489
The bodice is shaped with darts, and on the pattern the wrap front curves at the hem.  I didn't really love this, so straightened it out to a more squared edge.  I made a size Small, and the only other mods I made were to shorten the bodice by 1", and shorten the skirt by 6".


The neckline has a facing, and I used Vilene G785 interfacing for this.  I don't love this facing, and wish I hadn't bothered with it.  It refused to lay flat, even with understitching, and I ended up sewing it down with a twin needle.





I've been doing a lot of reading on sewing jersey wrap dresses, and the general consensus is not to use a facing, and I saw some examples of using clear elastic to stablise the neckline, so I might try that on the next dress. 

The pattern instructions call for stabilising the waist seam with 1/4" elastic, which I did.  It's sewn in after the bodice and skirt are sewn together, which was a bit tricky with the small seam allowance.  I know waist seams can also be stabilised with clear elastic, and if anybody has any tips on how to do this and the neckline, please let me know.  Thanks!


I really like this pattern and how the dress turned out, but the tiny seam allowance isn't the easiest to sew.  I seem to be all about the jersey wrap dresses at the minute, and have also made the Sew Over It Ultimate Wrap Dress, but don't love the fabric (I thought I did, but I was wrong).  The style of the dress is lovely though, and I will make another one. 

This Kwik Sew pattern is similar to Vogue V8379, which has a much friendlier 15mm (5/8") seam allowance, so I shall reserve judgement until I've tried it.

Have a great weekend,

Lynne    

19 comments:

  1. This is so flattering!The collar version in a bold 70s print would be brilliant too I reckon. I'm keen to make a better version of my Colette Wren dress, which is a surplice rather than a wrap, but am struggling to achieve a stable neckline as well!

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    1. Thanks you! You may have read my mind, as I have some gorgeous black jersey with big gold keys on it, and I think it's very 70s. I might try the Vogue pattern with it, and the key fabric is from The Textile Centre (not that I would enable anybody...)

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  2. Hi Lynne,your dress looks beautiful on you. I really recently made a wrap dress in wool jersey using New Look 6301. It's a good pattern and I added a couple of inches more fullness to the skirt by cutting it an inch from the fold. The waist seam instructions were to make a casing by joining the edges of the seam allowances then adding 1/4 inch elastic threaded through. It worked great and supports the heavy jersey. I just zigzagged them together as I don't have an overlocker. The front bodice edges had seen on bands which I interfaced with stretch tricot fusible interfacing which worked well.

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    1. Thanks Elaine! And thank you for the tips, what you did with the waist seam makes perfect sense. It's one of those things that's so simple I wonder why I didn't think of it myself! I shall also have a look at the New Look pattern, as I have my eye out for wrap dress patterns now.

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    2. It was a nice pattern and I will definitely try the sleeveless, straighter skirt version as well. I did go down one size according to the size chart as the finished measurements seemed very generous and then I cut the front wrap bodice edges to the uppermost size ie the 18 as I didn't want it too low cut or gaping. The tricot stuff in the bands really helps keep it in place.
      Also used clear elastic in the shoulder seams to stabilise and a strip of wonderweb pressed inside the hem before hemming with a twin needle to try to stop it tunnelling as I do have trouble with that. I found a some good tips on jersey wrap dresses on Lauren's blog Lladybird. Best wishes. Elaine

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    3. It seems I have absolutely no willpower, and have ordered this pattern on ebay! I initially didn't realise it was a faux wrap, and I really liked the neckband to finish the neckline. Then I saw this gorgeous maxi version made by MiMi G, and was sold!!

      http://mimigstyle.com/diy-black-maxi-pattern-review-nl6301la-pattern-signing/

      I like your idea of using the largest size for the wrap fronts, as it does seem a bit low. Also, I have the perfect fabric for a maxi length. It's like it was meant to be!!

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    4. Wow that sounds awesome. Mimi Gs looks so stylish doesn't it. Can't wait to see your maxi version!

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  3. HI Lynne, wrap dresses are so flattering - Lovely. Check out this post about sewing elastic in the shoulder seams with your overlocker https://mezzocouture.com/2017/12/14/named-clothing-tavlikki-sweater/

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    1. Thanks Ruth! And thank you for the link, I've just had a look at it, and it makes perfect sense. I think I'll practise it on some scraps first!

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  4. The thought of a 6mm seam allowance is terrifying!

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  5. The style does look great on you, doing well with your knits/overlocker sewing ;o)

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    1. Thanks Colette! I'm really all about the knit fabrics at the minute!

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  6. Fabulous dress! As always, I really like your style! I quite like 6mm seam allowances because the seam allowance guide is not as clear on my serger. There’s also an opening in my serger foot to pass the clear elastic (or ribbon or any small width something) through so it gets sewn with the fabric.

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    1. Thanks Inge! I think there was a opening for elastic on the foot of my old overlocker, but there doesn't seem to be one on my new overlocker. I'll have to experiment, and maybe have a look at the instruction book!

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  7. A wrap dress has been on my to sew list for ages but for some reason I seem to find it a bit intimidating and keep putting it off. I need to just give it a try! I use the lady skater instructions for clear elastic at the waist - you sew it on first to the bodice fabric - easier than adding later!

    Louise

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    1. Hi Louise, thanks for the elastic tip, that sounds like a great idea. I'm still kind of putting off trying the clear elastic. I really need to suck it up, and get on with it!

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.