Monday, 20 July 2015

Hawthorn dress

Thank you all for your comments on my pattern drafting class post.  I was amazed that so many people found it interesting!  So, without further ado, here is the dress I made from the pattern that I drafted in class.

It's the Colette Patterns Hawthorn dress, but with princess seams on the bodice.  I showed you my toile in my last post,


but, as this is a summer dress, I decided not to add the sleeves.  I also lowered the top of the princess seams and made the collar a bit narrower.  My fabric is some chambray that I bought last summer from Calico Laine.  I also have it in lilac, and am going to make another version without the collar.

This would have been finished about a week ago if I hadn't have ran out of thread!  We had a public holiday here last week, and I wasn't sure if the fabric shop would be open to buy some more, so I ordered some on ebay and had to wait for the Postie to deliver it, so only got the dress finished yesterday.  But, on the other hand, my next dress is nearly finished!  It just needs buttons, and the armholes need finished. 


I am absolutely delighted with the collar, it sits perfectly.  I had a bit of trouble sewing the princess seams, and ended up having to ease them in.  I measured my pattern, and the stitching lines are all the right length, so I might reduce the seam allowance to see if that helps for next time.


I have to show you how my teacher showed me how to made the button plackets.  They are drafted all in one piece with the centre front.

Here's the bodice front with the facing extending out from the front edge.  The green vertical line is the fold line, with the placket to the right.
And here it is with the placket folded back on the bodice front.
Right side on the left, wrong side on the right.

The first thing to do is to interface the placket.  In the photo below, the piece on the left is the right hand side bodice with the wrong side facing up.  The interfacing finishes at the fold line where the placket folds back on itself.  The piece on the right is the left hand side bodice, right side facing up. 


And here are both pieces with the placket folded back in place on the wrong side.  You can see the infacing on the left piece where I've folded over the neck edge.


I attached the bodice front sides, and sewed the front and back bodice together at the shoulder seams.  I then sewed the back neck facing to the front plackets.  You can see this at the bottom of this photo.


Then I layed the bodice out, right side up, and basted the collar onto the neckline.  You can just about see the edges of the collar at the front neckline in the photo below.  Next I folded the plackets and back facing, right side down, onto the bodice, and sewed it in place.  In this photo, it is pinned in place.

I hope that makes sense!  It's the same method of construction for any flat collar and facing, but in this case the edge of the placket extends out from the bodice front instead of being sewn on separately.  I'd never come across this before, and was quite taken with it!  I'd love to know if anybody else has seen this before.

 

I top stitched the hem, placket edge, collar and armholes with the triple stitch on my machine; and also finished the armholes with some bias tape.

 



Looking at these photos, I see some gaping at the front.  I thought I had lined the middle button up with the centre of the bust, but it looks a bit high.  I can sort this out on the next button-front dress that I make, because it did seem a bit strange to me to only have three buttons on the bodice front!  I can sew a fastner on this dress and see if that helps.  It's a pity I've already sewn the buttonholes on my next dress though!




I'm delighted with my dress, and am full of ideas for more self-drafted garments!

Have a great week!

Lynne


29 comments:

  1. Lovely dress - the colour is gorgeous! I like the Hawthorn shape anyway but its really interesting to see it with princess seams. I haven't ever seen the all in one placket method - it seems much easier?

    Louise

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    1. Thank you! I can't decide if this style of placket was easier, or not! I suppose it was a bit quicker because it didn't need sewn to the front, or understitched.

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  2. Great frock !

    Re: gaping - check out Handmade Jane, she's got a tip for solving that problem...

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    1. I just found Jane's post, and give this a go. Thank you!

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  3. Gorgeous! I wouldn't even know where to begin with making a garment for myself. What's the simplest to start off with?

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    1. Thank you! I can recommend a book called "Love At First Stitch" by Tilly Walnes, her website is www.tillyandthebuttons. It's brilliant, and everything is explained very well. It would be a good distraction for you until you can knit again! If fact, I recommend it to someone in my family last week. (Hi Joanne, if you're reading!).

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  4. I made a burdastyle shirt that uses that facing/placket method, pretty neat! You have a lovely looking and fitting dress there. When our sthn hemisphere winter finishes I'm going to muslin hawthorn!

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    1. Thank you! Ah, I wonder if this is a Burda thing then? Good luck with your Hawthorn.

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  5. Lovely dress! I envy that collar, it truly is perfection :)
    Very well done, you ;)

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    1. Thank you! I think the collar is the best bit! I'm delighted with it because it sits so well, especially after some flat collar disasters.

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  6. Beautiful dress Lynne, it fits like a glove! x

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    1. Forgot to say that I also paid great attention to the critical button placement on my last Granville shirt and still found it gaped a bit when I wore it. I think this happens when there aren't enough buttons or the gap between buttons is too wide. This may be the case with your Hawthorn as three buttons for a bodice doesn't seem very many! x

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    2. Thank you! I have been investing waaay to much brain power on buttonhole placement in the last few days! I agree that three buttons is not enough, but I can't work out the spacing to have a buttonhole at the middle of the bust, one just below the neckline, and two more that are evenly spaced. I'm thinking of one each at the top and bottom of the bust, but then it might gape at the bust middle. Sigh! I shall have to experiment, and stop overthinking!

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  7. It's a lovely dress! I've never seen a placket added on to the main bodice quite like that - thanks for the explanation!

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    1. Thank you! Glad the placket explianation made sense!

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  8. It's gorgeous! The colour really compliments your hair (and matches your blog!). I've just finished a Lekala button-front top with a similar fold-over button placket - so neat and tidy! Well done for drafting such a pretty dress.

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    1. Thank you! I hadn't even noticed that it matched my blog!!

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  9. Perfection fit! All your hours of study and measuring and mathematics really paid off. Good for you Lynne.

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  10. Thank you! Don't know about the maths though, I'm a bit rubbish at that!

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  11. This fits you so beautifully! And I love that color on you!

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  12. I think construction requires a mathematical brain! It looks great - love the little contrast on the armhole bias bindings.

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    1. Thank you! The bias tape was some that my sister bought me from Cath Kidston.

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  13. Looks brilliant, the fit is great!

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    1. Thank you! I'm delighted with the fit.

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  14. Fabulous dress. I really liked seeing how your bodice and placket were drafted as one.
    Love the colour on you :)

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  15. Absolutely lovely dress! The fit looks spot on and the colour really suits you Lynne xxx

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.