Monday, 27 April 2015

Dolly-thorn dress

Are you bored of the pattern mash-ups yet, because I'm not!  This one was inspired by a dress I spotted on the interwebs somewhere.  That's a vague sentence, if ever there was one!  Anyway, said dress is on one of my Pinterest boards.  I love Pinterest, it's so handy for organising things, and I've been making a list of my summer sewing based on a lot of things I've saved.

This particular mash-up consists of my heavily modified version of the bodice from Butterick B5603.  You can read about how I modified it here, and here is another version.   The skirt is from Colette Patterns Hawthorn dress.

I managed to match the print on the front, it's a wee bit out on the back and I didn't have enough fabric to match it at the centre back.


The fabric is one of the two fabrics I bought in February when I was visiting my friend in England.  Here's what it said along the selvedge - Asian Collection Alfred Shaheen for Free Spirit Westminster Fibers "Asian Blossoms".  I loved the colours, especially the blue/green background and the purple flowers, so I bought 2.5 metres. The background colour looks quite blue in these photos, but it's a bit darker and more green in real life.  It was £8.50 per metre, reduced from £12.99 per metre, and who doesn't love a sale?! 

The fabric is 45 inches wide, so the skirt pattern pieces were a bit too wide for it.  I narrowed them by cutting up the middle of the piece, and overlapping the cut edges.  Here's how I did it:

Fold the pattern piece in half - I think one piece wouldn't match at the top and bottom, so I made the bottom match.

 

Cut up the middle leaving a hinge at the top,

 

Overlap until it fits on the fabric.  I taped it together with some masking tape, so I can easily take it apart again to use at it's original size.  Ignore the tape on the left, that's holding down the placket from the original pattern so I could cut the front on the fold.  Also, I might want to press my pattern pieces a bit better before I use them.  Ahem...

 

I used a lilac zip for the lapped zip because I couldn't find a zip to match the main colour in the fabric, and also - why not. 


I also made an adjustment to the bodice to fix some gaping at the neckline.  Here's a link to the tutorial I used from Bernie And I.  This is one of those things that is so simple that it's genius!   Thanks to Lara from Dreaming Of Avonlea for putting me on to this.

I decided to add some piping to the seams under the bust and at the waist.  I ended up making the piping with some bias tape and piping cord.  Making it was easy, but as is the way with piping, it was fiddly to sew (or maybe that's just me?!).


I had also wanted to put piping around the neckline and armholes, but didn't have enough bias tape to do it.  My bias tape was from The Spinning Wheel in Belfast; it comes in 2 metre lengths, and I bought one.  When I went to buy some more, there was none left in lilac; and, after much searching, I couldn't find it on the internet!  It turned out to be for the best though, because I think piping at the neckline and armholes would have been a bit much; and sewing the seam binding on the facing nearly killed me!

That blinking seam binding and I nearly came to blows.  That stuff is currently at the top of my sewing hit list - even above tulle.  It was such a faff to work with, and absolutely refused to stay in place.  The deep curve in the all-in-one facing looks like the cats chewed it, and that was after it had been unpicked a few times. 


And then this happened.


That was when I finished for the night!  The next day I ended up basting it in place, which seemed to do the trick.  


But after all that, I love the finished dress!  

 

Have a great week!

Lynne

42 comments:

  1. This is gorgeous. That fabric is a great score!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I really love the fabric.

      Delete
  2. This is gorgeous. That fabric is a great score!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Your dress is sooooo georgous! Pattern and fabric are going so well with each other and the color looks great on you. At the moment I'm trying to stop myself from googling for this fabric. And love you pattern mash up as well.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! You've more will power than me. If I see a fabric I like, I'm straight onto Google!

      Delete
  4. Such a gorgeous dress. The fabric is stunning and I love your pattern mash up, it's a really lovely shape and looks great on you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I'm pleased with how the mash-up turned out.

      Delete
  5. Its lovely, that fabric is so pretty! I think you're right about the piping, having it just highlighting those waist seams is perfect. And I love the lilac zip!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I'm glad I went with the lilac zip, I nearly used a black zip instead.

      Delete
  6. The fabric is lovely, beautiful colours and that is the perfect amount of piping. Great fit on your frankenpattern too ;o)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I love the colours too, and am trying to buy colours that I normally wouldn't.

      Delete
  7. Beautiful beautiful!!! I adore the fabric but you've really honoured it with the pretty design, and that wonderful waist and piping. Adorable!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I do like how the piping turned out, even if it is a bit of a mare to work with!

      Delete
  8. Lovely dress and gorgeous fabric! You've got such a great fit too Lynne. Thanks for the gaping neck tutorial - have pinned that for future use! x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! Isn't that gaping tutorial great? It's one of those things that are so simple, I wondered why I hadn't thought of it myself!

      Delete
  9. Gorgeous dress. I love the piping, it really helps tie the dress together. I love how you matched the zip to the piping too, lovely touch.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I really did dither about the lilac zip. I had an invisible zip that was the same colour as the fabric backgroung, but wanted to use an ordinary zip after a previous disastrous experience with an invisible zip and piping.

      Delete
  10. Beautiful! I love that hawthorne skirt, such a nice shape

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! What's not to love about the Hawthorn skirt?! It's just lovely.

      Delete
  11. Oh that fabric pattern is just the best! I love the colours and the tiny flowers and the gigantic flowers too!

    And great tips through this one, thanks darling!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I really fell for the print when I saw it, and I thought the gaping tutorial might be helpful for you too.

      Delete
  12. Beautiful - that skirt shape is perfect for you. And very clever what you did to make the skirt pattern piece fit on your fabric, I have to admit I would never have thought of that!
    And I feel your pain on the seam binding not catching the fabric - argh! My screaming, stomping and cursing would be heard half way to Scotland! lol

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! The idea to cut up the middle of the skirt pieces came from a pattern drafting book. I have to admit that there were a few bad words directed at the seam binding! That was when I decided that it was a good idea to walk away from it for the night!

      Delete
  13. Ever thought of entering for The Great British Sewing Bee?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lol!! My sister and our friend have threatened to enter me (and I think they were serious!). But there is no way I'd do it. My nerves would be shattered, I'd forget how to thread the machine and would probably be sick on Claudia's shoes!!

      Delete
  14. What a wonderful fabric for this dress! Thank you for pointing out the tutorial to fix the gaping neckline. I also have problems with piping but I guess it's just a bit fiddly to work with. I have this B5603 and I'm planning to make it this year.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I'm glad I'm not the only person who has trouble with piping! Good luck with your B5603.

      Delete
  15. Oh my, that fabric is divine, and what a gorgeous dress you've made with it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! There must have been hundreds of cotton prints in the shop, but I couldn't leave this one behind.

      Delete
  16. Beautiful fabric and dress. I love how the piping picks out the purple. I'm going to a class to learn how too add piping at the weekend.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! Good luck with your class, I know piping can be sewn with a narrow zip foot, but I can definitely recommend using a piping foot.

      Delete
  17. Hi Lynne, what a fab dress! I especially like the central panel - what would you call that: waistband, yoke? - and the lovely little gathers under the bust. Really flattering x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I think the middle bit is called a yoke, I'm think that's what it's called on the Craftsy pattern drafting classes.

      Delete
  18. Absolutely gorgeous! You're quickly becoming the mash-up queen! Your pattern mash-ups are so inspiring!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! My current make is another mash up, but then I'm going to do some patterns as they should be.

      Delete
    2. Totally agree- you're the mash-up queen! This is brilliant!

      Delete
  19. Gorgeous dress Lynne! The fabric is absolutely fantastic. Great way to make the skirt pattern fit the fabric. Binding and I never get on. I end up attaching one side by machine and hand stitching the other side. I think the piping you did is just right.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I'm glad I'm not the only person who has trouble with seam binding. Your way of sewing it sounds like a great idea!

      Delete
  20. Lovely. Your mass-ups are perfect - even your names for them!
    Did you know that The Cotton Print Factory, Dargan has a proper craft shop now? Wool, patterns, fabric, books etc.. JUst mention it in case you're passing.......and it is pay day!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! It's a while since I've been in The Cotton Print Factory Shop, and I think they had just started the craft shop then. I did plan to call in a few months ago when I had to collect a parcel in DHL, but due to my appalling sense of direction I got a bit lost, and was just glad to find my way back to The East!! That said, I'm off work next week, and plan to go to Craftswomen Fabrics and also Cotton Print. This is on top of the fabric I got in the post last week, and the two parcels that I have to collect from the post office this evening... ;)

      Delete
  21. Beautiful dress. The piping looks great.

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.