Thursday, 26 March 2015

Hawthorn Dress

This was supposed to be posted about a week and a half ago.  I even had most of this post already written, and then I ran out of thread when I was topstitching!  But I'm getting ahead of myself; let's start at the start.


This dress is the Colette Patterns Hawthorn dress, I've loved this pattern since it was released, but what I don't love is the fit on the first one I made.  That busy fabric print hides a multitude of sins!  I'd been planning to make another one for ages, and when I dug out my pattern I nearly passed out when I saw all the alternations that Past Me had noted to make on the next one.  So I drafted my own version from my block.

 
I re-drafted the bodice and used the skirt pieces from the pattern.  The only changes that I made were to make a separate placket for the skirt, and to draft a 5/8" seam allowance on the bodice neckline and front.  The original pattern has 1/4" seam allowance there, and I remember having a bit of trouble with it on the first one.
  
 

As you can see, this one doesn't have the Peter Pan collar.  I spotted this lovely version by Marie, and that's what inspired me.  Marie is the queen of Hawthorns by the way, she's made so many lovely versions.
My fabric is some cotton sateen from ebay, and was only £3.99 per metre and 145cm wide.  I bought two metres, then kicked myself for not buying three so I could have made sleeves.  I didn't think that the print would need to be matched, but it turned out that it did.  Two and a half hours later, and with sore knees, I finally finished cutting it out.  Oh, and everything had to be cut on a single layer...

 

I used some cotton lawn for the facings as I thought the sateen would be too thick on the buttonholes, and the buttons are from The Spinning Wheel in Belfast.  I also used bias tape to face the armholes.  After a bit of practising on a fabric scrap, I used the triple stitch for the top stitching, and am pleased with how it turned out.

 

It went together without a hitch, until the aforementioned running out of thread on the top stitching.  That was two Saturday evenings ago.  I made an Emergency Thread Dash (because that's a bona fide thing in my house) to Dunelm Mill on the Sunday afternoon, but they didn't have the colour I wanted, so I had to order it on ebay.  I didn't get the thread until Thursday because we had no post on Tuesday as it was St Patrick's Day, and then I went to visit Friend in England on Friday where I had a brilliant time.  Fabric purchases were made, but I'll share them another time.  

 

I have to thank everybody who suggested recycling the skirt on my Sureau of doom.  I think I'm going to make Tilly's Delphine skirt with it, and maybe put a trim beneath the waistband to brighten it up a bit.  I'm so glad I'd just chucked the dress in the corner of the sewing room, and not in the bin!

Lynne

47 comments:

  1. I cannot believe how well you matched those stripes. Amazing!

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    1. Thank you! I'm pretty pleased with them too. It was worth all the crawling around on the floor!

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  2. The stripe-matching is very impressive and it's a very flattering style for you :)

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  3. I am in awe with your pattern matching skills! You have done such an incredible job :) I can imagine how you have felt when pulling out the pattern and seeing the alteration list. I tend to do the same. Writing down the alterations and then forget about them, haha.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, I was not amused when I saw my alteration list!

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  4. That looks gorgeous! I love it without the collar, and the mint and navy colour combo looks very chic. Also, your pattern matching skills are massive!

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    1. Thank you! I think it looks nice without the collar, and I'm trying to make an effort to be more adventurous with colours.

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  5. I love it 😍 you look fabulous x

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  6. Very striking, the time taken to cut it out was worth it! I have this one on my to do list.....

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    1. Thank you! I love this pattern, and have already cut out another one.

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  7. Fab stripe matching! This looks lovely on you Lynne!

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  8. Fab stripe matching! This looks lovely on you Lynne!

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  9. The time you spent pattern matching was definitely worth it - this looks great! The Hawthorn is on my list of patterns to make in the not-too-distant future so it's good to get some extra inspiration!

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    1. Thank you! Good luck with your Hawthorn!

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  10. Amazing pattern matching. Well worth the 2.5 hours spent!!! What an awesome, striking dress!

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    1. Thank you! It was definitely worth all the effort.

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  11. Oh my gosh that fabric is amazing and so is your pattern matching skills!! Love how the stripes wrap around you.

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    1. Thank you! I'm very pleased with how the stripes turned out.

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  12. Well done with the stripe matching - I bet that was a nightmare at the time! Love this dress, it really suits you, and it looks like you got the fit pretty spot on. I actually prefer the Hawthorn without the collar, as I was never really a fan of it (too small for me).

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    1. Thank you! Yes, the matching was a nightmare, there was a lot of muttering going on! I'm pleased with how it looks without the collar.

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  13. Love the fabric! And amazing pattern matching - you must have so much patience!! :)

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  14. Very pretty and I have to agree with the other ladies fantastic matching the patterns.

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  15. This is a stunning dress! Wonerful pattern matching! The original Hawthorn doesn't fit me well either, but I didn't know better at the time. If I ever make this dress again I'll do the same as you.

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    1. Thank you! I'm glad I'm not the only person who had trouble with fitting this dress!

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  16. So striking! How creative you are to even thinking about putting it together that way - well done you!

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  17. Fabulous fit and fantastic fabric - everything's right.

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  18. This is stunning, I love the fabric and you did a fab job matching stripes to make a really striking dress

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  19. This looks so cool! I LOVE the way you've used the stripes- really, really awesome!

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  20. You are sew clever, the dress looks stunning xx

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  21. You are sew clever, the dress looks stunning xx

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  22. Gorgeous! Very Riviera chic, your dress would look wonderful with a straw hat and a stroll along a beach...

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    1. Thank you, that sounds so exotic!

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  23. Cute dress. This will be lovely to wear in summer.

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Thank you for reading my blog! I love reading your comments, so please feel free to leave a comment if you have the time :) Lynne.