This is the Sewaholic Alma top I mentioned in my last post. This idea has been rattling around my head for a while now. I was always a big fan of The Addams Family as a child, when it was shown of Channel 4 in the afternoons, and I also loved the films from the 1990s. I liked Morticia best in the TV show, but I loved Christina Ricci as Wednesday in the films. She always wore a black dress with a white pointed collar, and any time I see a black top or dress with white collar, it makes me think of Wednesday Addams, so hence the name of my top!
|It's doesn't really go with this skirt, but just put my top on with it to take some photos when I got home from work!|
The fabric is black and white cotton eyelet from Sew N Sew in Belfast, it was about £3-4 per metre. I like this fabric a lot, it's nice and soft, unlike the cotton poplin I'm working with at the minute. Grrr...
I am especially pleased with the tops of the sleeves on this. I really like the puffed cap sleeves on the Alma's I've already made, but the long sleeves on the pattern didn't have the puffed sleeve cap. I did a bit of googling, and found this tutorial on adjusting sleeve caps. Method One made a lot of sense, so I went with it, and it worked perfectly!
Here's a photo of the long sleeve pattern piece after I had finished cutting it up. I'm not sure how well it shows up though. I cut the pattern piece as on the tutorial, and put the pattern piece for the capped sleeve underneath it. Then I spread out the triangles at the top until they were even with the capped sleeve piece, and sellotaped it all together. I also transferred the pattern marking from the capped sleeve piece, so I knew where to do the gathers. I hope that make sense!
I sewed the gathers as on the capped sleeve version, and set the sleeves in using instructions from a Simplicity sewing book that came from my Granny. I must post a few photos of that book sometime, because it's great. I'm guessing it's from the 1980s, and the drawings in it are brilliant. It's also a very useful book, and my Granny must have used it a lot, because it's a bit battered. Anyway, you can just about see the puffed sleeves in the above photo.
I shortened the sleeves a bit, and also added a white band around the cuff, for no other reason that I thought it looked nice.
These are my first set-in sleeves, and it wasn't as tricky as I thought it would be; but unfortunately the underarms were a bit tight. It wasn't really bad, but lets just say I wasn't going to be able to do The Timewarp. Trusty Fits For Real People came to the rescue though! It turned out the bottom of the armscye was a bit low, so I unpicked the sleeves, leaving the gathered sleeve cap, and sewed them in again with a 1/4 inch seam allowance, and it's much better. So I'll know again to make the bottom of the armscye a bit higher, and I might also widen the sleeve a smidge.
|I need to press the collar a bit better!|
I put the zip in the back on this one because I find the side zip on my other Almas' can bulge out a bit if the top is tucked into a skirt. For this I added 5/8 inch seam allowance to the centre back of the back piece, and cut two pieces. I also did the same with the back collar piece. I used a 13 inch (I think!) zip, it's a little bit short, but it's ok.
And finally, I used bias tape as facing again. It was a bit fiddly because of the collar, but I got there in the end. And I was also able to machine stitch the bias tape edge because the collar hides the stitches on the outside - result!!
I am currently working on my Colette Peony dress. I got the alternations to the bodice done, and am pleased with them, but the fabric is doing my head in. As mentioned above, it is cotton poplin, and it's quite stiff and wrinkles like mad. I've washed it once, and am hoping it will soften with a few washes. I ordered it on the internet, along with some other cotton poplin, which is a bit softer. Oh how I wish there was a decent dress fabric shop in Northern Ireland!
Have a great week, and stay safe in the snow. We got it on Friday, and I'm bored with it already.